the ocean has finally calmed down.  i paddled out early this morning just in case there were some big leftover sets.  there was only one big set all morning.  now i know that the swell is long gone, i can take a break and rest my body.  big waves for a week, lots of duck diving, and heavy wipeouts.  today’s afternoon sauna session fixed everything!

i have so many magic boards now for every kind of size and condition.  that’s the only thing that’s keeping me wanting to surf more and more. i feel like a kid again!  this is my 5’7 Black Magic ION twin fin shaped by Mike Woo. it feels like i’m riding a Tesla on water!  lots of accelerating speed with autopilot.  haha…

i see the coolest things at the beach.  this guy was doing yoga on his surfboards on the rack of his truck.  that front row ocean view must be amazing!  very smart!

check out this healthy daikon my Mom grew in her garden.  i’m going to make tsukemono with it!

it’s BACK!  the Friday night fireworks at the Hilton Lagoon is starting back up again tonight!  it’s been over 2 years so i’m pretty excited!  i think the whole island of Oahu is excited!

of all the South/East Asia counties i’ve been to, Thailand was one of best for culture and food.  i spent most of my time backpacking and catching trains, riding the bus, and walking on the side streets.  every thing was interesting and i can’t wait to go back there again.

and the street food was the best!  i ate breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the streets.  and luckily, i didn’t get food poisoning or stomach aches.  i have to say the street food was very clean and healthy.  and very cheap too!

“Be myn 2nyt!”  i think that means “be mine tonight?”  i saw this lighter at some bar in Japan and i wish i kept it.  it sure is unique…

Troy Yamanaka :  Blow Tail!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!