the ocean has finally calmed down. i paddled out early this morning just in case there were some big leftover sets. there was only one big set all morning. now i know that the swell is long gone, i can take a break and rest my body. big waves for a week, lots of duck diving, and heavy wipeouts. today’s afternoon sauna session fixed everything!
i have so many magic boards now for every kind of size and condition. that’s the only thing that’s keeping me wanting to surf more and more. i feel like a kid again! this is my 5’7 Black Magic ION twin fin shaped by Mike Woo. it feels like i’m riding a Tesla on water! lots of accelerating speed with autopilot. haha…
i see the coolest things at the beach. this guy was doing yoga on his surfboards on the rack of his truck. that front row ocean view must be amazing! very smart!
