this swell is very powerful and lasting a very long time.  i thought this morning would be way smaller but there were still some nice sized sets!  and the conditions couldn’t have been any better.

Lance Hookano is the regulator.  where ever he surfs, he makes sure everybody is on their best behavior.  i love surfing with him because there will be peace most of the time.  but sometimes, there is war.  and when there is war, you don’t want to be near this guy…

and Lance gets all the best waves where ever he goes.  and yes, he’s a showman!

i wasn’t expecting waves like this today.  and i’m pretty sure tomorrow will still be solid.  this swell is one of the strongest South swells ever.  and i can’t wait till it’s over because i’m totally burnt out.  i haven’t surfed this much in my life!

is this the best Summer in my life?  so far, absolutely yes!  

glad to see Asayama-san having one of his best Summers in his life too!  73 years old and living the dream…

Matchi is living the dream on Shikoku Island.  i’ll try to make it there for one typhoon this year!  Happy Birthday Matchi! 

fishing takes a lot of patience and waiting.  that’s not for me.  haha. 

i finally drove down King Street and saw the new mural.  it was huge!!!

Olympic Surfing Gold Medalist Carissa Moore and 3x Olympic Swimming Gold Medalist Duke Kahanamoku.  i’m so proud to be from Hawaii!

I hope Summer never ends…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana head high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and little bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!