IN THE END, WE ONLY REGRET THE CHANCES WE DIDN’T TAKE…

Good morning 4:45am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and cleaning up.
Light winds today so better conditions.
Sun, showers, and maybe rain.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

when ever i paddle for a wave on my foil, i approach it seriously.  you have to time it perfectly or you could hurt yourself, or others.  so every time i paddle for a wave, i paddle into it like i’m paddling into a 10′ North shore wave.  so i always advise people to get out of my way!  haha…

see that girl paddling away from my takeoff area?  if i were her, i would be paddling away faster.  better safe than sorry…

then once i’m up flying, it’s easy.  it’s like surfing in the air.  small days like this make it so fun to be in the ocean!

anyway, we have a South swell coming this week but the wind might be onshore.  so you better know where to look because somewhere will be perfect.  and i think i know just the place.  see you there…

traveling with family is the best.  you get to experience things together, and you get to meet the most amazing people.  and you also get to see people you usually don’t see wearing a lot of warm clothes…

Coach Rainos is part of the family.  he’s been coaching the kids since they were babies.  this was at Kewalo’s before the iPhones even came out.

found a classic one of Jeannie and i in a garage in Kakaako drinking beers.  she’s a cool chick!

Nao Omura use to stay at my house when she was young.  she was really well mannered and very respectful.  the kind of daughter parents dream of…

20 years ago, my daily routine was to check Backdoor, and if it wasn’t good, i’d go to Haleiwa.  i remember surfing it so big that if i paddled for a wave, i made sure i caught it.  because if you miss a wave out there, the next one will smash you on the head.  and it hurts.  but Haleiwa is a place where you can really power into turns on a 7’0…