This week morning routine…
Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph. Winds backing down tomorrow.
New South swell on Tuesday but South winds too.
Sunny and warm Summer day today.
Have a wonderful day!
i had to clean up Mayuki so i decided to drive around the ocean to check out the surf around town. today it felt like Summer!
it’s good to see the businesses coming back to life. i saw a lot of tour boats filled with happy tourists. that’s a good sign of things to come.
i went to fill in gas and there were 2 boats in front of me. that’s another good sign. BUT, the gas is so expensive now! i only filled up half my tank and it cost $400!!!!
thank goodness i don’t need gas to operate my foil. i was flying around Waikiki enjoying this beautiful Saturday in Hawaii. the ocean felt like it was all mine…
when i was a kid, i use to swim in the shorebreak at Sandy Beach and look at my other friends in the barrel. we use to call that “i spy.” as adults, i use to do that with Uske at 10′ Off The Wall. it was the exact same adrenaline rush. and it was also one of the most beautiful places in the ocean to be. do you see Uske? we’re literally looking right at each other in the barrel taking photos of each other. haha.
when a surfer is speeding down a 10′ barrel, it’s your job to wait right in the impact zone, dive slightly under the wave, and stick your camera right above the surface to get the magic photo. this is probably the most dangerous position you can ever be in a wave because one small miscalculation could cause the surfer and his board could easily stab or slice a hole in your body. when Uske sent me this photo that day, i realized how dangerous it was. but i loved being the photographer just as much as being the surfer…
and this is the part that fascinated me. swimming up after the wave passes and looking at the beautiful underwater world. the sense of connecting with the ocean is unexplainable. thank you Uske for the amazing photos…
