Namaste…

Good morning 5:30am.
Ala Moana knee high good for long boarding.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

when we use to dive all day long, accidents happened.  my friend Shawn cut his wrist with his knife by accident.  normally that’s guaranteed stitches at the hospital, but on the boat, we just wrap it up, and go back diving.  the emergency room can wait because diving was always more important…

after about a 100 dives spending 7 hours in the ocean, you tend to get tired.  so taking a nap on the long ride back to the harbor was always a good time to nap…

East Timor was one of the most memorable surf/dive trips in my life.  you can get barreled in the morning, then jump off the boat and hunt for dinner in the afternoon.  it was that easy.  this big fish looked like a bus underwater.  imagine this monster charging straight at you underwater?   thank goodness i had my spear…

“MY GIRLFRIEND SAID SHE’LL LEAVE ME IF I GO DIVING ONE MORE TIME…  I’M SURE GOING TO MISS HER.”

if you’re a free diver, deep down you understand what’s more important.  and usually it’s not the girlfriend.  haha…

as flat and as calm Bowls can be, right around the corner on the same day, it could be the total opposite.  Bowls was flat, but here were 10′ swells breaking in the 500′ deep blue ocean.  the wind was pushing 30mph creating these giant open ocean wind swells.  and the current was pulling the opposite way of the wind so the ocean was like a washing machine.   i haven’t been into the wild sea like that in a long time.  it was pretty exciting…

and when you fall, don’t look down because all you will see is a dark deep blue color where giant predators hunt for turtles and seals.  and that’s exactly what we look like floating around out there.  i don’t wear a leash so sometimes the wind and swell is blowing your board forward as the current is pulling you back.  your board can be right in front of you but will take a minute to get to.  all that time knowing what can come from underneath you.  haha…

but when you’re riding the swells connecting one to another, all you feel is the highest level of freedom of your life.  screaming the whole way enjoying the ride.  see that white water?  that is from a wave that just broke in the deep blue…

near KCC at Diamond Head, there is a place called Fort Ruger Market.  the poke/roast pork bowls are the best!  i found my new lunch getaway!

and you have to try their pickled ogo.  it reminds me of the kind my Grandma use to make.  sweet, sour, and makes your mouth water…