Surfing Life Magazine May 1992

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm Summer day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

check out these photos from the year 2008.

i use to launch my boat from the Ala Wai Harbor and go free diving outside of Sand Island.  i use to ALWAYS see sharks but this one was different because this one wasn’t just a shark, it was JAWS!  my boat was 14′ long and this shark was much longer.  it’s pretty rare to see something this big in 5′ deep water…

when Seth was a kid, we had so much fun times together.  this was before cell phones and the World Tour.  we would hang out at the beach and just surf and play around.  this was Ikumi Beach in Shikoku…

and because the rooms were so small in Japan, Seth would sleep in the closet.  haha.

i went to a Jack Johnson concert in Yokohama and this was the mens toilet.  it worked…

and in 2008, i use to surf every single morning at Backdoor and this is why.  it was just too beautiful to avoid…  photo by Kenji Sahara

i probably told this story 10x but i’ll tell it again.  the Moniz Kids only use to surf only at Baby Queen’s when they were little.  i pulled up one day and told all the kids “get into my car NOW!  Uncle’s going to take you Kewalos.”  four of the kids said “no way” and ran.  Seth looked at me and said “i’ll go,”  then he jumped in my car with his little surfboard.  he was so small that he couldn’t even see over my dashboard.  haha.  anyway, i had my camera that day and i’ll never forget how fearless he was.  that’s the day i knew that Seth was going to be the most fearless of all…

when i was watching the Pipeline Pro earlier this year, i wasn’t surprised.  he had some of the best waves of the competition, and he also had some of the worst wipeouts too.  but no matter what, he kept on going.  check out the video below to relive one of the most amazing moments in the history of surfing competition.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqovtaUO17A