Yamari Tako Time:  Photo by Shinsuke Matsukawa

Good morning 4:45am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Have a wonderful day!

i was so happy to get the invite for a very challenging day in the wild windy sea.  i’ve been waiting for a while for this day so i was very excited!

we went past Hanauma Bay where the ocean was like a washing machine.  it was super wild out there!

i learned so much about the ocean again.  we were 2 first graders in the huge blue wild sea!  screaming and laughing the whole time!

my tow buddy and i rode the big wind swells forever.  we were out for a while and the only reason we came in is because the ski ran out of gas.  haha…

today was the hardest workout in a very long time.  my cardio was tested, my mental was shaken, and my level of happiness went up a couple levels.  right after, we did the hot sauna and ice bath.  then i came home and slept like a baby.  i’m still sleepy but my body feels like a teenage boy.  haha…

i stayed at 4 different hotels in Bali and the reason is i wanted to surf everywhere.  i checked the swell and wind forecast, then booked a hotel right on the beach.  i woke up every morning at 4am, exercised, yoga, went surfing, then back at the hotel by 8am for breakfast.  then i had the rest of the day for exploring, food, massages, and fun…

i scored really good waves everywhere.  next year, i’m going to take a group with me and do the same exact thing.  it’s time for a Go-Naminori Boot Camp surf trip!

after that last historic swell, everybody is tired and resting.  my body took some damage but i don’t get tired and don’t need rest.  i kept going everyday even though it’s small, i want to be in the ocean regardless.  this next week will be smaller and windier so i have a good idea…

i’m going back to foiling!!!