Sketch…

Good morning 4:15am.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going with the wind.
Have a wonderful day!

a long time ago, i did a photoshoot for Surfer Girls Magazine in Japan.  one of my assignments was to document the Moniz Family daily lifestyle.  so i just pulled out my camera to show the world what a day looks like.  the 5 kids racing down the canal with Tammy and Tony watching on.  now you know why this kids are so competitive…

a long time ago, i went to Siargao Island in the Philippines.  there were only 2 resorts there and one was for sale.  it was right in front of the world class wave “Cloud 9” and it wasn’t that expensive at all.  if i bought it back then, i would be a millionaire today.  and i’d probably be living there getting barreled and drinking San Miguel’s.  haha…

this was a photo from that trip.  excellent waves, excellent friends, and excellent memories…

i want to thank Atsushi for finishing up my boards!  i have 6 magic boards and now i’m ready for everything and anything for the next few years.

this 20 year old girl is studying how to make cocktails.  i tried a couple and it was delicious!  one drink would cost $10 in a bar, but here, not even a dollar…

getting into photography was the best decision in my life.  it gave me a chance to document the kids when nobody else was documenting them.  every time i called them, they showed up. photos like these are like fine wine.  they get better with age.  Seth Moniz and Shun Murakami before becoming their own countries superstars…

we would jump on my boat and look for the craziest wave around.  it had to be shallow and hollow.  then i would throw the anchor and say “go get um boys!”  Seth didn’t disappoint…

Kelia was the easiest to shoot. she was also super photogenic.  when i pointed the camera at her, she knew what she had to do to get the shot.  this was her signature move and when i saw it for the first time, i knew she was going to be the World Champion someday.  she was just way ahead of everyone else…

i’ve been trying to be more involved in the fins i’m using.  i put a couple in my pocket and change it in the water.  it’s crazy how little changes make big differences…