when ever we get these rare huge South swells, the winds get weird. but this time, the wind was perfect so everywhere was off shore and good. we had 3 extra large days and who knows when the next huge 3 day epic swell like this will happen, or if it will ever happen again. 
yesterday was Day 3 and the conditions just got better and better. it was hard for me to go in but my body was telling me it had enough beatings. thankfully my friend invited me to his house after for a sauna/ice bath/sauna/ice bath session. it was my first time doing that and my body felt 10 years younger. now i want to surf more!!! thankfully tomorrow should be super good too! 
i use to travel the world with John Callahan exploring places where nobody has ever explored. sometimes we found waves, and sometimes we didn’t. but i remember the whole experience was so surreal. we would pull up to little remote villages and the kids would run to us and start jumping and screaming. they were so exited to see foreigners. we would give away candy, stickers, and our clothes. then sometimes, we would sail silently between islands like this and listen to the birds, monkeys, elephants, and tigers. that’s when i use to get chicken skin because it was so peaceful, and yet so terrifying. terrifying because we use to sail through danger zones for terrorists and pirates that kidnapped foreigners like us. yes, i use to sleep with my mask, snorkel, and passport because if something happened, i was going to jump overboard and try to survive. i’m not joking…
