Life in Hawaii…

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good to longboard.
Diamond Head chest high and good to windsurf.
South swell tomorrow.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Winter weather. Clouds, rain, and cold morning.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

it’s already May and the morning weather still feels like winter in Hawaii.  rain, clouds, windy, and cold.

but once the sun comes out, it feels like summer!

and i’m hoping for another endless summer.  so far, so good…

the Casio team manager in Japan gave me this G-Shock watch 15 years ago.  i used it everyday, then put it in my drawer and forgot it for the past 7 years.  when i found it yesterday, the date, time, and tide was exactly right!  i couldn’t believe it!  for the past 7 years, i went through 6 Nixon watches that all broke.  so now, i’m going back to this G-Shock because simplicity is better…

Tony Moniz introduced me to Backdoor.  back in the 1980’s, it was scary out there.  not only were the waves deadly, they locals were scary.  if you got in anyones way back then, you will get punched in the face and maybe get your fins punched off too.  i seen it many times so of course i was very careful.  but after surfing with Tony everyday on the North shore back then, all the locals knew i was with him.  and if they punched me, they will have to punch him first.  and that wasn’t going to happen.  so yeah, i am very thankful for Tony to introduce me to Backdoor and the local boys.  it saved me some black eyes for sure…

when i started shooting photos, Backdoor was my favorite.  i would see Tony taking off and i made sure i was in the right spot.  this was in the winter of 2006.

then right behind Dad was a little kid named Joshua Moniz.  i use to be so surprised on how their styles were so similar.  both calm and cool, and both with HIC and Billabong stickers.  photos like these will never get old…