Back in the Day:  Goofing off in Japan with Nainoa Surrat, Rocky Cannon, and Shinsuke Matsukawa.  Good times in Shonan…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and good. Bigger tomorrow and all week.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Winter weather. Rain, clouds, sun, and cool.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

i found a box under my bed which i don’t remember.  when i opened it, i found some treasure.  when i first started shooting photos, i was still the analog world.  i better get these scanned because i found some gems!    

and i also found a slide that someone took of me.  i’m not sure who took it but i remember pulling into many big Backdoor barrels like this.  my mission back then was to get the biggest and best barrel of the day.  so if mother nature gave me that opportunity, i took it.  live or die, i was pulling in…

i saw one of my buddies and he asked me “don’t you miss Backdoor?”  i told him “not at all.  i surfed there almost everyday for 25 winter seasons.  i’ve gotten the best barrels of my life, i’ve gotten into fights, i’ve broken 50 boards, got hurt a lot, and almost died a few times.  so no, i don’t miss it at all.”  Neal Miyake caught some of the finest moments of my life that i’ll never forget…

one thing i miss is going to Japan.  unfortunately the government still won’t allow foreigners in the country.  it sucks because i’m not a foreigner, i’m Japanese!   i miss driving through prefecture after prefecture, hanging out with friends, eating good food, and just loving the Japanese culture.  some of the finest moments of my life that i’ll never forget…