i saw something really weird yesterday morning.  when the sun was rising, i saw a rainbow ring around the sun.  pretty cool but pretty weird too.

from age 19 to just a few years ago, i got pretty much free unlimited surfboards from my sponsors.  i’d say over a thousand free boards throughout those years.   now that i look back, i was very fortunate to have amazing sponsors.  and now that i have to buy surfboards with my own money, i cherish each board a lot more.  that’s why these brand new ones still sit in my living room waiting for the day to be ridden.  i’m in no rush…

dug up some classic photos.  this was taken in Hebara in 1992 during the Marui Pro.  Hawaiian Kaipo Jaquias, Tahitian Vetea “Poto” David, and i stayed together.  those were such fun times in Japan.  Kaipo won the contest either that year or the next and he got gifted 15 cases of beer.  Kaipo didn’t drink beer so Poto and i helped him finish it all.  haha…

The Bowl Snap!

Good morning 3:45am.
Big South swell! 4-6′ and good everywhere!
Ala Moana clean.
Diamond Head wild.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Winter weather again.
Going to get barreled.
Have a wonderful day!

this is the first solid South swell of the year.  when i paddled out, it was chest high.  when i paddled in, it was way overhead.  tomorrow should be bigger and better.  in fact, all week will be better and better!

when ever i’m paddling back out, i always see people dropping in on each other.  this is the life at Ala Moana Bowls.  love it or leave it…

it’s hard to believe these South swells started way below Australia.  it took over a week to arrive, but nobody’s complaining.

cool winter feeling this morning.  it’s usually like this in February but with this weather, there are some amazing sunrises…

if i were a goofy footer, i’d be looking for these barrels all day long.  the best view in the world!