there were a lot of big empty barrels at Big Rights yesterday.  i saw some that could fit your car in.  empty or full, i love watching it all…

i found another classic photo taken in Shonan, Japan.  this was about 20 years ago.  i use to hang out with Bobby Higa and we would party with the boys until the sun came up.  those were some of the greatest times of my life.

HAWAII NEWS:  two nights ago, a Japanese tourist was walking in Waikiki wearing his Rolex watch.  a man with a gun approached him, pointed the gun at him, and took his Rolex.  am i surprised?  no.  here is my travel advice for anyone traveling anywhere in the world.  “leave your expensive watches and bags at home!!!”  we live in a different world now where simple is safer…

Super Deep @ Big Rights on Big Tuesday!

Good morning 4am.
South swell continues!
4-6′ at Ala Moana. Good conditions.
Bigger and wilder at Diamond Head.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Wet and windy Winter weather again.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

i was totally surprised when i arrived at Bowls this morning.  the parking lot was empty!  then when i looked at the waves, i understood why.  it was huge!  solid double overhead and very powerful!  just to get out to the lineup was very challenging.  but i love the challenge.

the whole ocean was moving.  the energy was strong.  i had my worst wipeout in 10 years.  the wave picked me up, threw me over the top, and slammed me into the reef.  i just covered my head, kept calm, and prayed i didn’t get hurt.  that was my good morning cup of coffee…

then i went home to nap because i knew where i was going this afternoon.  Big Rights was excellent!  huge and empty too.  big swells like today happen once a year if we’re lucky.  i already got my barrels for the Summer!

today the surf was for experienced surfers only.  i saw my friend Kahea on the beach and when i asked him if it was crowded, he told me “of course not.  most surfers can’t even make it out.”  he was absolutely right!  today is the kind of day i dream of.  i surfed for 4 hours, i got barreled, i got major wipeouts, and i got taught again that the ocean is greater than us…