7am at Bowls yesterday.  How many surfers?  32?

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana shoulder high good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

i saw 3 box jellyfish on the beach today.  even if there where a hundred, i probably would have still gone out because the waves were good!  tomorrow will probably have more…

he conditions were perfect!

it’s Summer so don’t expect any uncrowded spots in town.  sharks or jellyfish won’t keep the crowds away. 

good to see local Mike Ito back ripping!  cool guy and great surfer!

we were having an amazing breakfast at Liliha Bakery.  the best poi donuts and local style pancakes!  

then guess who walks in?  Akila Aipa walked in and happened to be seated right next to me on the counter.  what a freak coincidence because i never eat there and Akila doesn’t either.  we were talking about his recent Mexico trip and my Bali trip.  i’ve known Akila for 35 years and his father Ben Aipa coached both of us in and out of the water.  so yes, we had some really intense boding moments early in our surfing careers.  i’m super happy to see him shaping for the worlds best, and still traveling to the world best surf spots.  you have a dream life Akila.  good to see you brother!