researching how to enter Bali was very frustrating.  everybody would say different things and the rules would change by the day.  i spent hours and hours getting everything together because i didn’t want to come all the way here and get turned back at the airport.  but when i entered Bali, things went really smoothly.  much easier than i imagined.  if my surfboards weren’t lost, i would have been out of the airport in 20 minutes.  and that would have been the quickest ever.  so for those of you coming to Bali, just get your negative PCR test 48 hours before departure, book any hotel for at least one night, and that’s about it.  once you get to the airport, the friendly staff will guide you through the whole process.  and once you’re in Bali, enjoy this empty island like you will never get to enjoy it ever again.  come fast because since the past couple of days, i’ve been seeing a lot more people around.

i feel like Bali is how it use to be 30 years ago.  empty lineups everywhere.  the other day i was watching a 6′ perfect point right just peeling forever.  nobody was out and nobody was even in the parking lot.  all that time i spent researching how to get here has paid off.  i’m in a great place!

but now, i have to start researching on how to get back home.  oh boy…

i am more fascinated with surfboards then i’ve been in my whole life.  i look at it differently.  i check the rocker, rails, fin placement, and weight.  then when i put it under my arm, i can pretty much tell how it’s going to work.  and the fun part is going out into the ocean and trying it!  

it was about 30 year ago when Mike Woo made me my first board.  it was in a shed in his back yard in Palolo Valley.  a long extension cord stretched from his house to operate his tools.  he used a pencil to scribble some numbers on the wall.   now, Mike lives in Bali, he designs surfboards through his computer at home, and the numbers are 1000% more accurate. it’s crazy how far designing surfboards has come.  and it’s crazy how many surfboards i just ordered.  haha. 

the food here is very healthy so i’m losing a lot of weight.  it makes me realize how unhealthy the food is back home in America.  i’m going to change my diet for sure..

surfspots like Uluwatu and Canggu are super crowded.  but if you know where to look, you can find perfect empty waves like this right around the corner.  i’ve been scoring some of the most peaceful sessions of my life…

A night in Kuta with Sacchan, Takahashisan, and the boys!