did you watch the Academy Awards last night?  i actually watched the end and had no idea what had happened earlier.  Chris Rock apparently made a bad joke about Will Smith’s wife.  a very bad joke.

so Will Smith walked right up to him and slapped him hard in the face.  and this was on live TV!

i don’t condone violence, but i respect people who protect and stand by their family.  Will Smith simply protected his wife.  half the world thinks that was wrong, and the other half thinks that was right.  which half are you on?

i already know what half i’m on because if someone said something mean to Mateus, i would slap their head too.

i drove by Diamond Head this afternoon on the way home and couldn’t resist.  i rode one of the longest waves of my life!  i was in and out in 15 minutes and i was smiling all the way home…

we stopped by at Surfers Coffee on the way to the North Shore.  every time i walk in there, i stop and stare at this Surfer magazine poster from the 1980’s.  it’s pretty mesmerizing.  

this is a solid 12′ wave at huge Pipeline.  Tony Moniz in the barrel with a Local Motion surfboard and a Dove Wetsuit.  then you see the bodyboarder looking right at him and dropping in.  some people say that this photo would have been better if the bodyboarder wasn’t there.  BUT, i think the opposite.  looking at this photo makes you wonder right?  makes you wonder if Tony made that barrel?  of if Tony went to the beach and beat up that bodyboarder and ate his bodyboard.  what do you think happened?  i’ll ask him and tell you the story…

Tom is the owner of Surfers Coffee.  when he saw me staring at that poster, he told me “i’ve been collecting photos my whole life and that one of Tony is my all time favorite.”  that was so nice to hear.  

next is going to be Seth Moniz.  i’m sure one of his old or new photos will bring back memories for decades to come.  i can’t wait…

Flying SUP!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and getting clean.
Light trade winds so good conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!