Forgotten Wave: The Garbage Hole

i was watching The Endless Summer last night.  it was so nice to see how uncrowded the waves were 50 years ago.  it was also so nice to see all the surfers unique style.  back then, no 2 surfers surfed alike.  each had their own style and it was all beautiful.  this has to be one of the best surf movies ever made…

across the channel from Ala Moana Bowls, there use to be a surf spot called the Garbage Hole.  a compact hollow right that barreled on every wave.  it was a regular footers dream until they threw rocks over it and built Magic Island.  OMG!

anyway, my Endless Summer is still going strong.  too bad the Garbage Hole spot isn’t there anymore because it would be nice to foil this Bowls left and pump across the channel and get barreled on a right.  that would have been a dream…

Dream JEEP: One Life

since i was a kid, i always wanted a Jeep.  i came very close so many times to buying one but stopped because it wasn’t perfect.  then the other day i see this beauty parked on the side of me.  an elder lady got out and i told her that was my dream Jeep.  of course she didn’t want to sell it.  if she did, i would have bought it right there on the spot.  that’s my dream jeep!  

in my Mom’s house, there is an old antique tea pot that she got from my Grandma.  this was passed down for 4 generations so it’s over a 100 years old.  that is so cool!

maybe someday a Japanese friend can come over and make us a pot of tea from this.  i don’t want to touch it because if i break it, my Mom would kill me.  

speaking of Japan, look how beautiful the cherry blossoms are!  thank you Nao-san for bringing me instant joy!  

the waves in town are small so it’s pretty peaceful.  it’s days like this i love the most.  i can fly alone in the big blue ocean!

March 29, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report

DH is Diamond Head…

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore coming up to 5′ later today.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!