about 15 years ago i was at a Rip Curl Grom contest at Kewalo’s.  i was watching Ben Aipa coaching some of the kids.  when i saw him do this gesture, i had flashbacks.  when Ben did this, it wasn’t good.  this meant “OMG!!!!  WHAT ARE YOU DOING!!!!????”  so after i caught a wave and looked into the beach for him, i would get so nervous when i saw him do this to me.  i knew i was in trouble.  the funny thing is i do this to my students a lot too.  and when they see me do this, i know they are nervous too.  haha.  so yes, i learned this from Ben Aipa and if i do this gesture to you, it’s usually not good…

Tommy on the wave of the morning…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

good to see all the early morning surfers getting ready for this nice South swell.

before the sun even comes up, the boys are already on the sets.  Greg getting barreled.

Neil drop knee boogie board.

welcome back Mr. Rainbow!

Tommy taking off as Dana watches the beautiful ride.