now that this world has changed, you have to approach traveling a different way.  i was on the phone with Japan Airlines for 1 hour and 30 minutes waiting for an agent.  then when she finally comes on, she couldn’t answer my questions about the transit process from Indonesia to Hawaii.  then she tells me that my surfboards will be an additional $200 each way.  omg, i better research more.  i felt like i just wasted 2 hours of my precious life…

getting my new board ready is like decorating a Christmas tree.  i start from top to bottom while i’m singing Jingle Bells all the way!!!  thank you for my early present Santa!

Flashback 2015:  The young Asayama-san in Hawaii!  Today is Asayama-san’s 73rd birthday!  Happy Birthday to you!!!

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore 2-4′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i’ve been surfing too much in town recently.  nothing bad about it, but there are definitely a lot of interesting people in the ocean.  it can get frustrating at times, but when you look at it from the outside, town is town.  no rules, no manners, and no respect.  so this morning, i called my buddy on the North shore and got the surf report.  5 minutes later, i was driving out in the dark…

omg, when i caught my first wave, i felt so FREE!  nobody hassling for waves, nobody yelling, nobody disrespecting, and nobody near me.  i felt like i had the whole ocean to myself again!

after i flew around like a bird for 2 hours, i was glad my friend told me to come out today.  if he didn’t, i would have been flying like a drunken bird at Ala Moana running over all the long boarders that dropped in on us the past 2 weeks.  and that would have been ugly…  haha.