Legend surfer Chuck Andrews has been with Dove Wetsuits for the past 30 plus years.  the wetsuit on the left was custom made over 25 years ago and he still uses it everyday.  the wetsuits on the right are new ones that will last him another 25 years.  that goes to show you the quality of Dove.  nothing compares…

when i was in Chucks garage, i saw this 8’6 Pipeline gun hanging from his wall.  i told him “I WANT THAT BOARD!!  I’LL BUY IT RIGHT NOW!!!”  he said “NO WAY!”  haha.  so i’m going to order my own custom 8’6 Pipeline gun from Chuck next week!  i feel like paddling into a 20′ wave with this board.  should be easy!  

i stress to my students that if you want to be a very good surfer, you have to be able to ride anything on any given day.  most surfers can’t do that so we train hard to do the almost impossible.  try to ride a 9’2 classic longboard on one wave…

then a 5’10 high performance short board on the next wave.  not too many people can connect to board, ocean, and oneself that easily.  this young girl already has it mastered!  

check out my new Trinx 5’10!  this board will probably go to Indonesia with me!

Early Morning Lovers…

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

yippie!  another day of unexpected waves.  it looked flat when we got to the beach but when we paddled out, it was super good!

Bowls might look crowded but the same guy are catching all the good waves.  the leftovers go to the rest.

Malcom surfs every single morning.  he surfs really good and has a super good positive vibe.

this is not flat!  this is perfect waves if you have the right surfboard.

Matt getting in his morning waves before he goes to work.  how can you have a bad day in the office after this?

Dana is one of the coolest locals out there.  always smiling, always spreading the aloha, and always picking up the trash.  good things happen to good people…

Jerome and Dana talking about the epic waves they shared this morning.

and this girl is surfing better and better every day.  it’s amazing how grace and confidence and make a person so much more beautiful than they already are.