The Runt of the Litter

it’s nice to see Daisuke-san with Tomoki-san and crew at the Powder company!   hope to surf the mountains with you guys next year!

it’s good to see Nakahodo-san in Okinawa enjoying Don Julio 1942 in the sun.  gosh i miss Okinawa!  

Nakahodo-san is a plant enthusiast and now i know why.  i love his garden!

Back in the Day:  when the boys first started to free dive, i use to look at them and laugh.  they were so cute!  all they wanted to do was spear fish and eat it.  Cole, Gen, Isaiah, Kaylen, Seth, and Joshua smiling before the hunt.  

the boys would start walking to the beach and Seth would be following them from far behind.  he was ordered to hold the buoy and dead fish because nobody else wanted to do it.  so being the youngest and smallest, it was his job.  i use to think that this is only going to make Seth more hungry and competitive.  i could see him bummed for having to do the dirty jobs, but i could also see the fire in his eyes.  and maybe that’s why he’s on the World Surf Tour rated #5 in the world right now?  what do you think?

March 14, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report

Dancing on the Sea…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore coming up to 6-8′ today.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The Big Hawaiian

the trade winds are back so the free Hawaiian air conditioner is back on!  cool winds and warm weather.

and still fun waves if you can be patient.  we had fun so that’s all that matters.

longboading went through a few stages in the past 30 years.  it went from style and grace to high performance turns and attacking the wave.  now it’s back to style and grace so this young woman is on the right path.

i went to see Chuck Andrews yesterday.  he use to shape my surfboards over 30 years ago so we have a good relationship.  Chuck always taught me the essence of “aloha.”  we had a long talk and his stories inspire me.  when he paddles out to any spot on the island, everybody knows who he is.  and if you don’t, you better stay far away from this Hawaiian!  if you ever disrespect Uncle Chuck, you’re in big trouble!!!

after hearing Uncle Chuck’s stories about the Hawaiian culture, i was craving Hawaiian food.  so it was Hawaiian for dinner!