Natural Lines…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore shoulder high with a new swell tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

when we first paddled out, the waves seemed much smaller than yesterday.  BUT, we were wrong again!  bigger and better than yesterday!

this is winter in Hawaii.  sunny, warm, and everybody happy.

i have a feeling that this Summer is going to be a good one!

now i can just leave the girls surfing on their own.  they know how to find the good waves, they know how to surf, and most of all, they know mannerism.  this is the goal of surfing…

and the shot of the day.  i can’t complain sitting in the inside taking photos of the girls passing by.  people tell me that style can’t be taught.  i say that is absolutely incorrect!

when i was at the Pipeline contest, Seth was getting ready for his heat and he told me to hold this.  i think someone gave it to him?  or made it for him?  i looked at it and it was pretty cool.  

good to see Seth’s and Wade Tokoro’s name on that coin.  i hope he didn’t lose it in the sand.  

looking back at 2017 when the Okinawan girls kept me laughing and laughing.  very positive, very happy, and very energetic.  we had some great times in the ocean together…

Russia released this photo of the American Women’s Basketball Pro arrest photo.  it must be miserable to be locked up in a Russian jail at a time when we’re at war.  the US government is trying to get her out and bring her back to America.  in my opinion, i would rather see the US government start educating US citizens that other countries have their own rules.  if you go there and commit a crime, there are consequences.   so just because trafficking marijuana is so minor in America, it doesn’t mean that elsewhere.  nobody taught me that in school.  i learned by watching people getting executed in Indonesia for smuggling drugs.  it’s no laughing matter…