Dawn Patrol Exercise…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore shoulder high and getting smaller today.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

the South swell showed up today but it wasn’t as big as everybody thought.  so a lot of patient surfers, and a lot of waiting.

and a lot of traffic in the water.  it was pretty dangerous. 

but the girls know how to mix in with the crowd and catch 30 waves each session.  their wave knowledge has gotten to a point where they can see waves nobody else can.  i sit in the inside and watch the show!  i only get mad when they fall.  haha.

looking back when we use to travel around the world all year round.  exploring this wonderful surfing world!  Tokura-san riding a Tokoro in the Philippines.  can’t wait to do this again!

let’s talk about surfing mannerism.  it’s something i learned by traveling around the world.  when you’re visiting or living in a country other than yours, you should respect the culture, the people, and especially the locals.  it’s a universal rule that every surfer should know.  i’ve seen visiting surfers get beaten up, chased in, their board broken, and forbidden from returning.  if you disrespect, something bad will happen to you.  it’s just a matter of time.  but at the same time, if you respect the locals, most will embrace you.

here is an example.  these are locals from Wakayama.  i call them heavy locals because if you were ever to drop in or disrespect any one of them, you are in BIG trouble!   you better run to your car, get on the next airplane, and never return.  but at the same time, they are the nicest people on earth.   these guys will never travel to another country and drop in on anyone.  and if they saw another Japanese surfer disrespecting locals anywhere in the world, they will be the first to scold you.  it’s not just mannerism, it’s common sense…