Beautiful Life…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore waist high this morning coming up to 3-5′ later today.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

after surfing North shore yesterday, today was so easy for the girls.  just connecting and flowing like usual.  each pushing the other to the limit so everybody gets better.

Scott got a super nice right!  look how perfect this wave is!

this never gets boring.  i can do this every single day for the rest of my life.

today a Japanese girl from Japan dropped in on my friend.  i asked her why did she do that and she said “i didn’t see her.”  i told her i saw you look at her behind you and still went.  see said no and completely denied it.  what she doesn’t know is i see everything in the ocean.  and what she didn’t know is i actually took a video of that whole wave.  so when i came in, we all looked at the video and it clearly shows her dropping in, looking back twice, and still riding the wave.  usually i don’t care about it but i don’t like when people from other countries come to Hawaii and act like that. it’s very disrespectful to the locals surfers.  one of the locals at Bowls said that should post the video on social media.  good idea.  haha.

anyway, if you drop in on this surfer girl that surfs this good, you will look like a fool.  and when you see the video i took, you will agree.  it’s actually embarrassing…

the tree trimmers finally showed up to cut the coconuts.  one of the guys looked at it and said “OMG!  that’s so dangerous!!!”  haha…

everyday this surfer girl is getting better and better.  her technical level is very high, and her mental level is even higher.  she’s calm, comfortable, and confident in any conditions.  pretty amazing…

i saw this couple taking off on a wave and was wondering what they were going to do.  

then the guy picks up the girl and throws her upside-down in the air.  omg, tandem surfing!  i want to try that someday!

back in 1993, Tahitian Poto David, Hawaii’s Kaipo Jaquias, Sunny Garcia, and i were staying together for 2 weeks in Japan.  we stayed in Chiba for the Marui Pro but when the waves went flat, we headed straight to Tokyo.  thank goodness there weren’t cell phones, social media, and cameras around.  we were curious, mischievous, and bad boys.  if you crossed our path back then, i want to apologize from the bottom of my heart.  we were surfer kids just being surfer kids…