omg, i was walking by the harbor this morning and couldn’t believe how much rubbish is in the ocean?  why????

the parking lot was totally full by 6:40am and everybody was so happy for this out of season South swell!

this was the first time i saw the Hilton Lagoon empty?  what happened to all the water???

this year has been the best for the South shore.  it’s usually flat but not in 2022!

since there are so many surfers, there aren’t enough waves for everyone.  i saw 5 people on each wave today.  it was crazy!

most of the surfers don’t even look behind.  so after a few waves, i did the same.  you can’t call it dropping in if you don’t know anyone is behind you right?  haha…

i really wanted to foil these past few days but there’s just been too many people out at Bowls.  full traffic jam!  

the waves have been small but it’s absolutely perfect.  

absolutely perfect for the surfer girls.

gosh, i can’t believe what happened to Kakaako.  when i was growing up, there use to only be one building there.  that’s pretty crazy.

i found this old photo of me when i was very young.  i was actually shocked when i saw it.  this is when i first moved to Japan.  looking back, i was a pretty bad person.  always curious, mischievous, arrogant, loud, obnoxious, and a troublemaker.   so now i want to thank all my family and friends for not abandoning me.  and i want to apologize to everybody i offended back then.  i’m an example of learning by my mistakes because i sure made a lot of them.  so once again, thank you and sorry…

Our Family is Growing!  Mateus and little brother Saint.  Brotherly love…

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore BIG! Coming up to 8-12′ and Sunset Pro ON!
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good. Getting bigger later today.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!