A Lovely Bottom Turn…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 2-4′ and little bumpy.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
North/East winds at 20mph.
Sunny and cool.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

yippie!  another beautiful morning on the South shore.  perfect conditions and still a little nice swell.

we went to surf Bowls and it felt good surfing the lefts into the rainbow.

my friend Rodney was riding his old school Ben Aipa so i asked if i could try it.  right when i jumped on it, i could feel Ben whispering in my ear “connect!”  so that’s what i did.  that board felt like magic!

it’s crazy how i always get cool photos when i fall.  so that’s my excuse for falling.  haha.

my friend sent me this photo of a wave i caught last week at Haleiwa.  gosh, that day was perfect!  

it’s so fun hanging out with the family on the beach.  this day turned out to be one of the happiest beach days of our lives.  

Honouliwai might only be 1 year old, but he’s already trying to attract the girls.  haha.

everybody’s been asking me where Daisuke-san is.  i told them he went back to Japan and will be flying in the mountains and oceans.  i still can’t believe he could foil in that short of a timeframe.  

Carissa Moore is making the USA and Hawaii very proud.  the first surfing Gold Medalist ever!  the world fell in love with this sweet girl and she is representing Hawaii very well.