Dreams come true…

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 6-8′ and good. Pipeline Womens ON!
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny, warm, and rainbows back.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

when we arrived early at Pipeline this morning, Kelia told me “uncle, last time Joshua won the Pipe contest on my birthday.  today is my birthday so i can feel something good will happen.”     happy birthday Kelia!  and good happened!!!!

i think this was the biggest heat to watch of the whole contest.  some betting websites had John John Florence a 10 to 1 favorite over Seth Moniz.  over the past few days, everybody was predicting John John and Kelly Slater in the final.  not today!  Seth ended up winning that heat and i heard somebody bet $5,000 that Seth would win and got paid $50,000 for that major upset.  when’s the party?  haha…

i have a lot of stories to share but i just got home from a long day.  it’s 8pm and way past my bedtime.  i received hundreds of texts congratulating Seth’s performance today.  sorry i have absolutely no energy to reply.  but thank you from the bottom of my heart.  i’m so emotional now that all i can do is close my eyes and fade away into what seems to be a dream.   Seth got 2nd only to the best surfer of all time, Kelly Slater.  we are all so proud of Seth.  he represented Hawaii with an outstanding performance for this whole contest.  good job Seth and Happy Birthday Kelia!  goodnight to you all…

i saw this guy take off his legs, leave it on the beach next to his dog, and paddle out to some pretty big Haleiwa.  

i paddled out to watch him but i missed the wave he caught.  i think that is so amazing and also very inspiring…

film review time.  i just watched this netflix documentary called “The Tinder Swindler.”  it’s about this guy that met women on the Tinder dating site, spending money to have them fall in love with him, then gaining their trust and taking all of their money.”  he ended up swindling multiple women out of millions and millions of dollars.  he finally got caught, went to jail for only 5 months, and now he’s back on Tinder doing the same thing.  welcome to the new age of dating.  these kind of stories scare me.  please be careful because there are very sick people in this world hunting down people looking for true love.  then they only end up with a broken heart.  sad…