Winter in a Bikini at Bowls…

Good morning 4:40am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

want to welcome back the rainbows!  as i was leaving my house this morning in the dark, it was showering so i knew by the time i got in the water, i would see huge double rainbows.  it was amazing!

it seems like the Summer never ended…

i chose a longboard for round 1, then a shortboard for round 2.   both super fun!

then i let my friend ride my longboard and she rode it better than me.  this is so beautiful!

yesterday’s Pipeline Pro is the most talked about topic in the world right now.  watching it from the webcast and on the beach was totally different.  i had my binoculars with me so i saw a lot of things other people couldn’t see.  i wasn’t only looking at the rides, i was looking at the competitors faces.  so i knew who was excited, who was calm, and who was scared.  i’ll give you my report in the next few days.  this photo was taken by Tony Heff from the beach.  in this case, Seth was excited!!!

Seth is #2 in the world right now.  can you believe it?  there were tens of thousands of people on the beach, and millions of people around the world watching it live on the web.  this kid is  even more famous now!  and the cool thing about Seth is that he’s very humble and respectful.  that’s what people love about him.

yesterday was one of the happiest days of my life.  i still feel like i’m dreaming…