Life is short, so enjoy it!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 3′ this morning and coming up tonight.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

spent another wonderful day in the ocean today.  2 rounds of happiness!

this year i’ve been mixing it up a little so i’m trying to ride any type of longboard, shortboard, and foil board.  i just want to ride it all because it’s been helping my knowledge for equipment, and also knowledge for the ocean.  it’s teaching me how to reconnect each session with no excuses.

right after that, i got a facetime call from Seth and i already knew what it was about.  so i jumped in my car and rushed over to check out their new toy!  it arrived today and the boys were so happy!

both Seth and Benji worked hard this year to make this dream come true.  now they are the proud owners of this beauty!  congratulations boys!

then it was back on Mayuki and back into the sea.  i had the pleasure of surfing with these lovely Japanese surf legends.  we had a wonderful session and photos will be coming soon.  but for now, i’m sunburnt so goodnight…

this is the most talked about photo going around now.  it was taken by Brent Bielmann right when the final finished.  it’s very emotional, and it’s very touching.  Kelly Slater just won his 8th Pipeline Masters at age 50.  Seth wasn’t even born when Kelly won his first Pipe Masters back in 1992.  so for Kelly, it must have been very emotional because he was crying in the water, and he was crying on the beach.  i respect that because you can’t hide those kind of emotions.  as for Seth Moniz, he’s a fierce competitor, but he’s also a very companionate person.  he cares, he loves, and he’s always making sure everyone is ok.  he’s been reaching out to young kids hearts ever since he was a kid, and now he’s reaching out to his elders.  seeing this photo made the world fall in love with this kid.  and seeing this photo makes us all so proud of Seth.  it’s a great feeling!   it felt like we all won the Pipeline Masters.  thank you boys for the heart filed post contest experience.  this is what surfing is all about…