Backside Waikiki…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

today i felt like flying so i went to look for a calm wave where i could spread my wings and fly!

i’ve traveled on many boat trips throughout my life and watching the albatross birds always fascinated me.  they would fly by as we’re sailing, and even fly by when we’re surfing.  i would always wonder how it would feel to fly like that.

and now i know how to feel so free.  you’re connected to the ocean in a totally different way.  it’s quiet, it’s peaceful, and it’s the ultimate feeling of freedom.  i’m not joking when i feel like a bird because i really do.  and this is probably the closest you can get to that.  after i land in the water, i just want to get back up and fly again…

and when i’m heading in after a session like that, i feel like a new man.  FREEDOM!!!

we were out surfing and sharing this special moment with a friend we lost.  it was one of her favorite surf spots so we rode waves, laughed, and even cried.  i could really feel her presence and it felt good to share the ocean together.  this is how she would want us to live our lives.  which is together enjoying the waves…

Takami-san looking stronger than ever.  she was so nice that she caught enough waves for Toda-san too because he’s in Japan.  

Akeme-san is a very funny woman.  it’s crazy that we met in a little bar in Chiba 30 years ago and now we are here.  

Yoriko-san surprised me.  i didn’t realize how good she can surf.  super smooth with a good style.  

25 years ago, Hikaru-san took out sea urchin from my foot in G-Land.  i will never forget that.

ever since the Pipeline contest was over, i didn’t talk or see Seth until now.  that was just 2 days ago so i wanted to have a conversation about the contest.  but like always, we got sidetracked and all we talked about was the new boat.  then before i left, i told Seth “hey, you look happier now then you did getting 2nd at the Pipeline contest.”  he said “I AM!”  haha. we were both laughing so hard.

by the way, somebody asked me what kind of boat that is.  it’s actually a little smaller version of Mayuki.  very hard to find and a very good and reliable boat.  for what the boys do in the ocean, this is absolutely the best of the best.  i’m glad they were patient because patience paid off…