Living in the present…

Good morning 4:10am.
North shore 3-5′ and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and clean.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions everywhere.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

when i got out into the ocean this morning, i had to sit back and watch the sunrise before i could even wax up my board.

it was like an oil painting.  the blue sky, the orange sun, the grey clouds, the rain off Diamond Head, and the glassy calm ocean.  wow!

then i jumped in and had a great time with the Uncles.  pure inspiration…

i was teaching my friend how to foil today.  she did it!  and now it’s going to change her life forever…

hope you had a calm day…

after the final was over, i saw all of Seth’s boys running down the beach to carry him up.  although he got 2nd, he was our hero and also deserved to be carried up the beach too.  but as soon as Seth got in, he put Kelly on his shoulder and carried him up.  that was Seth being Seth.  a kid that respects his elders and a kid that puts others before himself.  Kelly might be the King, but Seth is now the Prince of Surfing!!!  

i ran on the side and took these photos.  i was almost tearing because here is my little nephew showing the world what “Aloha” is all about.  that moment was pure sportsmanship at its finest.  it wasn’t orchestrated, it wasn’t planned, it was something that came from the heart.  so many people commented to me about Seth’s actions throughout the whole event.  his barrels and beating some of the worlds best surfers was the highlight for many.  but this moment was the highlight for me.      

over 10 years ago, i took this photo of Seth sitting on the beach right when he came in from a session at Backdoor.  back then, i use to tell all my friends that this kid is going to be good at what ever he chooses to do in life.  and this kid proved me right!