Free Range

in some parts of the world, chicken fighting is a national sport.  i went to this huge arena deep in Indonesia and witnessed one of the biggest chicken fights ever.  thousands of people, everyone yelling and screaming, everyone pacing bets, everyone smoking, and everyone having a good time.  if this was Hawaii, we’d all go to jail because this is totally illegal.  but in Indonesia, this is more popular than baseball or football.

right before the chickens are about to fight, hundreds of bets are being placed.  people yelling to each other and money flying around everywhere.  i have no idea how to bet on a chicken, but it was very intense.  as we were leaving, i saw a few chickens on the fire outside being cooked.  come to find out, it was the losers.  yes, nothing goes to waste in Indonesia.

1997 at G-Land.  Bol was like a little brother to me.  we would go around surfing and partying all over Indonesia together.  he couldn’t speak English so we would communicate in Japanese.  i really miss this kid.  a Balinese surf superstar and a very funny guy.  we use to laugh until our stomachs hurted…

Toda-san and Takami-san are also like my brother and sister.  they are some of the few people in my life that i actually listen to.  if i do something stupid, they will tell me.  so yes, i need them in my life to keep me under control…

January 31, 2022 Hawaii Surf Report

Freedom is Everything!

Good morning 4am.
North shore 2-4′ and good. No Pipeline Pro today.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light winds so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Alive and Kicking

Day 30 of 2022:  another clear and perfect day.

smooth conditions for Boot Camp.

Daisuke-san tried a 4’11 high performance foil board today and it was alive!  he caught a super long one but i was too busy flying the opposite way so i missed his best wave.  tomorrow hopefully i won’t miss the shot!

the best boards in the world.  thank you Jeannie Chesser for the colorful airbrush.  we love it!

we passed by Bowls at 8:30am.  it was very crowded!

this is the shot of the day:  Michelle on the fish.  so nice!!!  shot by my foil drone…