Free Range

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in some parts of the world, chicken fighting is a national sport.  i went to this huge arena deep in Indonesia and witnessed one of the biggest chicken fights ever.  thousands of people, everyone yelling and screaming, everyone pacing bets, everyone smoking, and everyone having a good time.  if this was Hawaii, we’d all go to jail because this is totally illegal.  but in Indonesia, this is more popular than baseball or football.

right before the chickens are about to fight, hundreds of bets are being placed.  people yelling to each other and money flying around everywhere.  i have no idea how to bet on a chicken, but it was very intense.  as we were leaving, i saw a few chickens on the fire outside being cooked.  come to find out, it was the losers.  yes, nothing goes to waste in Indonesia.

1997 at G-Land.  Bol was like a little brother to me.  we would go around surfing and partying all over Indonesia together.  he couldn’t speak English so we would communicate in Japanese.  i really miss this kid.  a Balinese surf superstar and a very funny guy.  we use to laugh until our stomachs hurted…

Toda-san and Takami-san are also like my brother and sister.  they are some of the few people in my life that i actually listen to.  if i do something stupid, they will tell me.  so yes, i need them in my life to keep me under control…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide