i went to my closet and dusted off my camera i haven’t used in a very long time.  this Canon is the best!

Daisuke-san is learning about surfing, foiling, localism, rules, and manners in a very short time.  it takes a normal surfer about 20 years time, a few fist fights, a lot of getting yelled at, and multiple injuries to understand the code of surfing.  i’m always watching him closely and we try to obey the code.  if someone gets mad at him while he’s with me, they will have to get through me before they get to him.  but when he eventually surfs on his own, he’s basically on his own.  and let me tell you, there’s some tough localism going around in the ocean in every country.  it’s not a fun learning process.  i can’t even count how many fights i’ve gotten into while traveling the world.  nobody taught me so i learned the hard way…

doesn’t this look so fun?

once you get to a certain level, foiling becomes surfing.  the only difference is you’re going 10x faster.

we’ve reached perfection!  now it only gets easier…

omg, the water is so clean!  i hope the waves go flat so we can do another outer island boat trip!  can’t wait!

Dancing on Water…

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore chest high and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and good.
Light winds this morning so good conditions.
Cool morning becoming sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Day 27 of 2022:  when ever there are box jellyfish in the water, i try to go a little later because i don’t want to get stung in the dark.  so i left when the sun came up and went jellyfish hunting.

gosh, i haven’t done this in a while and i actually had fun.  if i didn’t plan to surf this morning, i would have probably drove around the island in less than 30 minutes.  

i passed by Diamond Head and it looked so beautiful.  then all of a sudden i didn’t care about jellyfish anymore.

then i went to check out Waikiki.  

yes, there were about 20 box jellyfish on the beach so that means more were in the water.  have you ever gotten stung by these before?  it hurts! 

because of the jellyfish warning, not too many surfers were in the water this morning.  we had a wonderful time riding endless waves.  Daisuke-san was flying like a bird…