Keep warm, keep Dove…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 6-8′ and perfect. Coming up to 10′ later today.
Ala Moana chest high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.
Light winds so clean morning conditions. Trade winds coming back.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Day 20 of 2022:  headed out this morning with the moon setting.  just seeing this makes me super calm and very appreciative of life.

driving out passing surf points looking for the best wave.  this morning there was a West swell so i kind of knew where the best spot would be.

another day of perfect conditions.

the waves were much bigger than i thought so it was very challenging.  and with the new West swell building, the ocean was alive.  and when the ocean is alive, it’s hard to foil.  Daisuke-san challenged himself and succeeded.

i had a very hard time foiling today.  it’s one of those days i wished i had my shortboard because the waves were so good!  but i sure ain’t complaining.

and the water is clearing up again.  i should be getting a call from the boys soon.  blue water hunting coming soon!

when ever i’m on my foil, i ALWAYS  wear a leash.  i wear it because i don’t want my foil to run away on its own and hurt anyone.  yes, if you don’t have a leash, your foil will continue flying even without you riding it.  i’ve seen runaway foils before. 

i fell on this wave and look at my board still wanting to go forward.  if it wasn’t for my leash, my board could possibly fly all the way to the shore.  and anything in its way will get cut in half.  so to all you foilers, please wear a leash!