Ocean to Mountain Training

i’m super happy to see Nao-san teaching the boys how to take care of their magic board.  scraping off the wax is a pretty hard job, but it has to be done.  

and if you want to be a real surfer, you better be able to wax your own surfboard.  

and you also better be able to carry your own board too.  i just love this photo because you can see the excitement in the kids eyes.  good job Nao-san on passing down your surfers knowledge.  the kids will remember these moments forever…

and now you guys are in the mountains?  omg, from the ocean to the mountains.  lucky kids and lucky you…

omg, that looks so fun!  i can’t wait to do that too!

omg, can you please buy that Honda Acty Van and send it back to Hawaii for me?  i love it!!!  anyway, tell the kids i said hello and please enjoy the ocean and mountains…

December 26, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Beautiful Japan.  Photo by Nao-san…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore chest high from the North. Laniakea good again.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Making of Watermen

we’ve surfed together for 4 sessions and everything is going great!  Daisuke-san want’s to become a waterman and it’s happening!  he is smart, he is determined, he is dedicated, he is positive, and he is having fun along the way.  today is Christmas and Santa sent us some fun waves…

wave by wave, i can see big improvements.  just give us a couple more weeks and Daisuke-san will be surfing like an Olympian!  he already deserves a Gold medal for the longest ride today!

then went in the afternoon with my friend and his 2 kids for a joy ride in the worlds most wonderful park.  it was better than Disneyland!  this is how we enjoy Christmas in Hawaii.  hope you had a wonderful one too…