To all my friends all around the world, i like to say to you on this very special day, Merry Christmas to you! May our lives forever be forever stronger!
Good morning 4am.
North shore 2-4′ from the North. Laniakea best.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds down a little to 20mph.
Sunny and warm Christmas Day!
Going to play in the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!
it’s the Eve of Christmas and the ocean is where we want to be. the waves were small but i’m just grateful to be able to watch the start of the new day rise! looking to the East, we see the sun rise over Diamond Head…
then i turn my head to the West and see a beautiful Jeannie Chesser and a colorful rainbow. it’s moments like this that just take your breath away. and these moments have been happening every single day for the past month!
as for surfing, everyday we are progressing. we’re paddling harder, looking forward, and enjoying each wave to the fullest. just a single wave like this can change your life forever…
Mateus is still a kid but when i was his age, i would remember what my Uncles were trying to teach me. so i thought i’d give him a lesson on hunting. first, keep calm and make sure your heart isn’t pumping because your prey will know. second, don’t rush the shot because you only have one kill shot and you don’t want your target to suffer. and third, be confident. if you’re not confident, don’t take the shot. 
i told him to get low, stay low, keep quiet, aim with one eye, and imagine your target getting hit. amazingly, he hit the target right in the chest! good boy Mateus! when you get older, i would love to take you hunting with me. then we can bbq what we hunt, drink a beer, and laugh at this photo. haha.
this is how i taught Seth and Joshua how to hunt when they were little kids. the only thing they couldn’t do was keep calm. their hearts would beat so fast when they saw a fish. then they couldn’t hold their breath because of that. haha. those were some of the funniest times in my life. .
