Japan Colors by Nao-san…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 2-4′ from the North. Laniakea good.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

another beautiful morning here at Ala Moana.  lovely off shore breezes…

if you have the right board, you can have a lot of fun.  walking on water is like a dream…

back in 1992, i moved to Japan.  i spoke no Japanese, and i had no friends.  there was no internet, no cellular phones, and definitely no google maps.  i lived in Shonan so i use to drive this mini car every morning to the beach.  i would look for surf up and down the coast getting lost everywhere i went.  it took me 3 months to figure out that Shonan is a bay.  so when it’s flat, it’s totally flat.   i didn’t give up searching for waves every single day and when i found it, i would illegally park the car on the main road, grab my surfboard, and run screaming to the beach.  people must have thought i was crazy.  and for a guy that surfed everyday in his life to go without waves for weeks, i was literally crazy.  haha.

although it’s been super windy, Ala Moana is protected from the wind.  so if you are looking for the cleanest waves on the island, here it is!  

Scott has a really good surfing style.  his foot placement on the board is perfect, his knees are bent, his arms are balanced, he’s calm, and he’s looking exactly where he wants to go.  i always tell my students to watch him because this is the ultimate goal.  if you can surf like this, you’re cool!

Sunabe Seawall Memories:  i wanted to say hello to all my friends in Okinawa.  miss you guys and gals…