Santa’s Present:  December South Swell!

Good morning 4am.
North and East shores 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i met the coolest Japanese surfer today.  a happy and healthy man that loves life so much.  when i meet people like that, i feel the good vibe and i feel happy and healthy too.  i was taught to surround yourself with happy and positive people.  so today was wonderful.   can’t wait to surf with him again!

when we were out at Bowls today, the waves were super good so there were a lot of surfers out.  some surfers know what they’re doing, and some don’t.  can you see what’s about to happen in this photo?

so the surfer who was paddling out is 100% wrong in this situation because he’s in the way.  obviously nobody taught him that shouldn’t paddle straight out through the lineup.  after this happened, i told him that he has to paddle around next time.  but he had no idea what i was talking about.  haha.  glad that wasn’t my student.  someday, somebody is really going to get hurt badly out there.

driving home, i saw hundreds of cars lined up at a Covid testing site.  another outbreak?  please be safe everyone!

Chilly but colorful winter mornings…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 4-8′ from the North. Laniakea best.
East side 6+’ strong East swell.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!