every time i walk into Surf and Sea surf shop in Haleiwa, i go straight the the right side of the store and look up.  this is were my step father Jose Angel’s surfboard is hanging.  it brings back memories because it’s probably one of the same model of board that i stood up on my first wave.  i was 6 years old and i still remember riding it with him at Haleiwa.

i would love to ride this board right now.  if i had the chance, i would probably paddle it out with no leash to 20′ out of control closing out Sunset Beach.  the reason is i want to try it in same conditions just like how i watched him do it back in the 1970’s.  

shaped by Greg Noll for Jose Angel.  i get chicken skin every time i look at this board.  and now that i’m getting older, i really want it…

Another day, another secret spot.  I love the North Shore!

Good morning 4am.
North shore smaller this morning. Head high at the biggest spots but getting much bigger this afternoon. Clean conditions.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, rain, and rainbows.
Going North.
Have a wonderful day!

another dawn patrol on the North shore this morning.  the swell were solid 6′ but it was missing Haleiwa.  so Haleiwa being so small, we decided to look around for a more challenging wave. 

i was with someone who wanted a challenge.  so i got out my 5’10 and thought, let’s challenge ourselves.  i didn’t tell him where we were paddling out to because i know he would be super nervous.  

the waves were solid 6′ and pretty crazy.  my shortboard was way too small but i knew i had to lead by example. if i couldn’t make the wave, he would have doubts.  so i had to focus pretty hard.  haha.  it was such a great feeling riding big waves again!  thank goodness i didn’t fall and break my board, or snap my 5′ skinny comp leash.  whew…

right before we paddled in, i said “guess what?  we’re surfing right now at Avalanche.”  you should have saw his face!  he was super surprised.  haha.  Avalanche is well known as a crazy thick and powerful wave for big wave riders.  i couldn’t believe how perfect it was today!  we scored!  and now we have a newborn big wave rider!  “men who ride mountains.”

after a challenging day, a nice bowl of noodle just hits the spot!    tomorrow we’re searching for another perfect wave.  can’t wait!!!