now that i’m back into surfing, i’m going to continue to go really early to my secret spots.  it’s so wonderful!

when ever i pass by one of the outer islands, i have to stop, take a breath, and be grateful of Mother Nature.  it’s so wonderful!  

hanging out in Seth’s backyard with family.  it’s so wonderful!

Honouliwai was checking out Seth’s surfboards.  this kid will be surfing really soon.  it’s so wonderful!

Live the life you love.
Love the life you live…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 3′ and onshore.
Ala Moana shoulder high and offshore. Dropping fast.
Diamond Head head high and cleaning up.
North winds at 15mph. South shore best.
Heavy rain clearing up later.
Dirty water everywhere.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

whenever we have big storms like this, i like to drive around and check out the waves.  even though it was totally onshore all morning, there could be a chance the winds switch offshore.  and right when i pulled up to the flooded parking lot, the wind switched offshore!  so i grabbed my surfboard and paddled out to Bowls.  i had to duck dive 31 waves in the storm and when i finally got out, the waves were big and breaking over the red buoy!!!!  only 2 other crazy guys out.  one guy said “i can’t believe we are surfing Big Bowls in December!”  yes, we scored!

then i went to take a drive through Waikiki.  it was totally flooded!!!

the water was almost coming in the doors of my little van.  the ocean was still clean today but tomorrow it will be dark brown everywhere.  stay out…