Sunset sailing…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore down to 2-4′. Haleiwa contest off.
Ala Moana flat to knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and cool.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

after not going to one of my secret spots for over 10 years, i thought it would be discovered and super crowded by now.  BUT, i thought wrong.  it was just Takahashi-san and i enjoying the secret…

and ever since i started riding Joshua’s boards, i learned a lot about surfboards.  i learned how important it is to get a magic board. because when i used Joshua’s magic Kerry Tokoro, i felt like Joshua.  haha.  i thought i was too old to do turns like this.   i fell in love with surfing again…

omg, Kelia’s prime rib recipe was the best i’ve ever eaten.  it was super soft and juicy.  i wish i took some leftovers!!!

in Hawaiian, the word Kolohe means “rascal or mischievous.”  these two boys Honoluiwai and Keahi are going to be famous Kolohe Boys.  haha.  i can guarantee you that!

A Magic Board could change your Life!

Place: Tubetime at Redgate, South Africa
Surfboard: 6’4 Mike Woo
Wetsuit: Dove 3/2 Fullsuit
Magazine: Surfing Life
Photo: Chris Van Lennup