Thanksgiving Night Fever!!!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 8-10′ and good. Haleiwa Pro ON!
Ala Moana waist high. Bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

today is Thanksgiving Day in Hawaii.  i am most thankful for Joshua’s recovery.  he looks so good and so healthy.  Joshua also cooked this years turkey and it was delicious!

i am also thankful for having the coolest niece in the world.  Kelia’s smile brings joy to everyones life.   and so did the prime rib she cooked!

i had the most wonderful Thanksgiving Day with family and friends.  today was a day to be thankful and i’m super thankful for spending quality time like this.  it finally feels like everything is getting back to normal…

starting December 1st, there will no longer be social distancing, no capacity limits on events, and restaurants will be back to normal.  i can start to see the Japanese coming back little by little and if you ask me, Hawaii is finally back to normal…  

and if you were to go to Waikiki now, you will see happy people everywhere.  

had some amazing memories in Chiba.  staying at Jasmine’s house and laughing all night long.  hope to see you guys soon again…

back in 1996, i practically lived in Bali during the Summer.  i was young and dumb.  thankfully i had these guys to look after me.  we had no cel phones, no computers, no internet, and no social media.  we just surfed all day and partied all night.  nobody cared how many people “liked” us.   all we cared about was living life to the fullest.  i miss those days…