Surfers Romance…  Haha…

Good morning 4am.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
North shore 4-6′ and still coming up. Perfect conditions.
Haleiwa and Pipeline super good.
Ala Moana flat to knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i think i have surfing fever again!  waking up at 3am and looking in the dark for waves.  i pulled up to Pipeline in the dark and it wasn’t that good.

so i went to check Rocky Point.  it was better but lots of guys paddling out.

then i met up with Takahashi-san and looked at other spots.  he wanted to surf somewhere uncrowded so i took him to check my secret spots.

we pulled up and there was nobody out!  omg, lucky!!!

Takahashi-san doesn’t like to surf lefts so i took him to surf lefts.  haha.  he was ripping!

i love surfing lefts because i feel like i can go more upside-down.  hanging my head down going into turns feels like i’m losing my center of gravity.  it feels good to let go and push super hard.  we ended up surfing this secret spot with nobody else out.  i haven’t searched around for waves like this in years.  it was so rewarding to finally score epic waves with just a friend out.  it was a very happy day!!!

we spent the evening down in Waikiki.  i couldn’t believe how crowded it was!  i watched the sun go down to the horizon and actually saw the green flash!  lucky day!

Takahashi-san and the Duke…

i went into the Billabong store and saw this cool display.  i can’t express how proud i am of my nephews.  i get so emotional because it makes me so happy.  they are representing Hawaii and Billabong in a very respectful way.  

Josh Moniz will be back in the water getting barreled soon.  until he does, i’ll be getting some barrels for him. 

Seth Moniz will be getting barreled and i’m going to drop in on him.  it’s payback for the time he dropped in on me at Baby Queen’s when he was 10 years old.  i told him that day “someday, i’ll get you back.”  haha…