OMG, i really miss this!!!  To Japan:  Please let me in!!!

Good morning 4am.
North shore 3-5′ and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and fun.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

this morning i went training to a place where nobody goes.  i took my 5’10 shortboard and went to my secret spot.  it was way overhead and very powerful so i just wanted to practice my take offs.  i took off on 10 very hollow waves and everything when perfect.  this week Backdoor is going to be perfect so now i’m a little more prepared than last time.

omg, i haven’t eaten yakiniki for the longest time.

Takahashi-san surfed 2 rounds this morning on the North Shore so he was hungry too.  we had an amazing dinner.

the raw beef with the egg yolk on the top is my favorite.  it’s called “yuke” and this place is the best on Oahu.  now i’m super full.  going to sleep good, wake up at 3am, then head out to the North Shore to look for barrels.  hope you guys had a wonderful day!  goodnight….

this was the 3rd cover shot i took for Hawaii Skin Diver magazine.  KB just shot this huge fish and when he took it back to the boat, i followed him with my fisheye lens.  this is personally one of my favorite shots ever.  very natural and no posing.  this was March 2011 in Palau.  i get chills thinking about this trip because we were in the water when the earthquake hit Japan, which changed many lives forever…

the other day on Oahu, i saw one of the Uncles from Molokai at the Yacht Club.  he said “hey Kirby, when you coming back home?”  i had tears in my eyes because of his kindness.  it’s unbelievable how welcomed i felt.  i want to go back already!!!