Surf your dream…

Good morning 4am.
North shore head high and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head was it high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

when Seth was a little kid, i enjoyed watching him grow up.  out of the 5 Moniz kids, Seth was the competitive out of all.  i would follow him through my camera lens and this kid would always look at the ocean with total confidence.  this contest was at Haleiwa and the waves were pretty big so he was super focused.  not scared, just razor sharp focused…

now Seth is an Uncle so i’m excited to see how he plays with his young nieces and nephews.  they all look up to him so i’m sure one of them will be just as competitive as him…

Back in the Day

Betting barreled @ Padang Padang

Photo by Yoshiro Nakayama