November 22, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Takahashi-san:  Happy Day @ Kaisers…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore super small. Knee high and clean.
Ala Moana flat to knee high.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and fun.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Top Dream Jobs

had a wonderful session with the young ladies this morning.  we paddled out before the sun rose…

and before the moon set…

my previous jobs were:  newspaper boy, classroom cleaner, food server, gas station attendant, parking lot attendant, t-shirt salesman, English teacher, photographer, pro surfer, and a couple more.  BUT, nothing compares to being a surf coach.  i love teaching because i love to see the stoke.  and most important, the ocean is my “Happy Place.”  this has been my office for the past 30 years and will be until the day i retire.  i can guarantee that…

and my second favorite job in my life was being a photographer.  coming home and seeing the results still makes me happy.  so being a surf coach and a photographer simultaneously is pretty much a dream for me.  please don’t wake me up…

Falling in Love 2

it’s pretty horrifying to see photos of Joshua’s accident posted online.  i’m just so thankful that he’s walking again.

i’m on Season 2 of “Falling in Love.”  the more i watch this reality show, the better my Japanese gets.  this is everyday real life conversational Japanese so if you want to speak the language, this is the one to watch.  being young and falling in love sucks.  it’s something that everyone has to go through in life so the earlier you get through it, the better your life gets.  haha.