Jeannie dropping in on Malcom.  Sharing is caring…

Good morning 4am.
North shore knee high and clean.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to longboard.
Have a wonderful day!

Les is down at the parking lot every morning cleaning up.  such a good man!

with the sun rising on the left and the moon setting on the right, it was another perfect morning to be in the ocean.

when the waves are almost flat in town, there is only one spot that catches all the swell.  and that’s where we were this morning.  Takahashi-san on a beauty!

we went to eat lunch at the Ilikai Hotel.  Takahashi-san ordered a ham and cheese croissant sandwich.  it cost $12 and this is what it looked like.  haha!  the flattest and smallest croissant sandwich i’ve ever seen.  we were laughing!!!

in the pitch dark, i saw this couple light a fire lantern and let it go in the air.  the thing was flaming and who knew were it was going to land.  what if in a boat?  what about the rubbish in the ocean?  come on guys, use your brain!  

the weather has been absolutely beautiful.  

and the conditions have been absolutely perfect.  i feel like i’m on a knife slicing into butter…

thank you Benji for the photo.  this is a huge knife jaw i shot and gave to my cousin.  he was stoked!  

check out these 1988 Hawaiian Pro/Am Circuit final ratings.  Tony Moniz was #1 in Hawaii!  and look at all those legendary names.  back then, i was still an amateur competing against Hawaii’s best.   my goal was to make it into the Top 16 so i was stoked to make it.  the following season, i was seeded into all the main events.  good old memories…