Round 1:  The waves were so good this morning!  Shoulder high sets and absolutely perfect conditions.  Check out this amazing sequence of Shigehisa-san.

He’s only been surfing for 4 years and already has great style.

One of my best photos of the morning.  Look how good that magic 6’0 Trinx flows.

His first time surfing in Hawaii and loving the ride.

Round 2:  Family time out in the ocean.  Teaching my grand nephews how I fell in love with the ocean.  I hope they will someday too.

In this crazy world that it’s become, I’m now determined to teach the next generation how to survive.  When I was growing up, I never thought that you will need hunting skills to survive.  But now, I truly believe you do.  I use to recommend to all the kids to go to college and get a good education.  Now, I recommend to the kids to learn how to survive.  This is the best education for the new future.

Going surfing and fishing…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light winds so clean conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Sunrise at Bowls.

Small waves but still super fun.  Thank you Alan for the photo.

Light winds and calm conditions.

Overhead for the kids.

Um, good day for fishing.

Round 2:  Shopping for fishing supplies.

My next custom board has been shaped.

OMG, looks so good.  I can’t wait to try it!!!